Fuel tanks

[Tony Spicer]

Just finished one tank.... This is a killer....

Wow, Dan. Quite a story!

I have some questions and also some observations. I've never read the tank BM, so you'll have to help me out. Why a nonstop build? Why not spread it out over several days? Do a couple ribs, then go work on something else. Why three people? That's two more than necessary, and most likely slowed you down. Do you really have a lot of cleanup to do? Better to do the cleanup on each rib just as soon as the riveting on that rib is finished. Removing cured tank sealant will most likely have to be done mechanically. There might be chemicals that would work, but I suspect it's not anything you would want to be around.

For those of you that have yet to build your tanks, I promise you it's not difficult. First, have a look at the BM and also this:

https://picasaweb.google.com/tonyboytoo ... ctionTanks

There's lots of ways to skin a cat, and you might as well be aware of more than one. When the tank is clecoed together and you're ready to start, do some dry runs going thru every step of a rib install. When you feel comfortable, start. Either lock the shop door, or hang a "Do Not Disturb" sign. Mix enough sealant to do just one rib. Average time for one rib is 30 minutes. With the 8 Panther tanks I built I usually did just two, sometimes three ribs at a time. More than that and it was more work than fun. Repeat the dry run when you're ready to put the back on the tank.

Remember, it's not a big deal. I promise!

Tony

[PlaneDan]

Just finished one tank.

I started at just after 10am and had two very good helpers. It is now 7:35pm and I just came in. I stopped 30 min for lunch and about 15 min for a coke break. This is a killer. I think we did a pretty good job, but the proof is in the leak testing. I still have some clean up to do and have to install the sender. I am supposed to do the next tank on Saturday with just my brother helping, but I may need a month off to recover from this one. It isn’t the job, it is that you cannot stop once you start. If I could do it over two or 3 days, then it would not be so bad. The one thing that I always hear about this sticky stuff is that it get's all over everything. I suppose that is possible, but if you go slowly and work carefully, you will not have much of a mess, if any.

I don't know how much Flamemaster I used, but I do know that I used 80g of Flamemaster to get the ribs riveted in, but then I just kept making batches as I needed to. I do know that I used a whole lot more than I thought I would. Actually, I have plenty of the base left, but they don’t give you much of the black stuff and I am sure it looks like less than it actually is because you use so little of it. I mixed mostly in batches of 30g. Much more than that and I think it would get really sticky by the time you get to the end of the batch, because those did.

All the bad stuff that Dan said might happen with the rivets, did, except for the back of the rivet pulling all the way through. I will have a lot of aluminum clean up to do when the dust settles.

[Seansull]

I hope not! I am building mine first also.

I decided to build the tanks first to allow them to cure for plenty of time before leak testing and installing on completed wings.

[Tony Spicer]

Dan,

Whoops! Reference Dwg P-W right wing details and skin layout: "Note: Do not rivet inboard skins on until you have fitted the fuel tanks."

I'm guessing that in the next few days that note will get circled on every builders print. Unless it had already been circled.

Tony

[PlaneDan]

Tony,

I did not rivet the top 4 rows of the inboard skins. I was referring to the leading edge where the leading edge of the tanks go. I better call Dan because I am probably confusing everybody including myself.

[at7000ft]

Here are the fuel tank fixtures for sale on our site:
Panther Tank Saddles

Well there you go again Rachel and Dan W., making life easier and more fun for us Panther builders.

Rick H.

[Tony Spicer]

Dan Heath,

In looking at photos of your right wing, it appears the inboard skins have already been riveted on. Any chance my old eyes are playing tricks on me?

Tony

[danweseman]

Dan
First it was not a oversight on either of the skins. the rear set of mount holes are in the wing skins, and front set you will layout and drill. it is noted in Wing BM not to rivet the inboard skins along spars until the FTs are fitted.
In our opinion , you have two options (notice ,guessing at where to put mounting holes is not one of them)
1. finish tanks per BM and mount when complete
2. assemble with clecos and mount to wings (so you can dimple skins separately)

mounting tank
the aft row of tank mount holes will be transfer drilled from wing skins.
front row will be laid out and drilled by you.
Note: every hole in aft row is not transfer drilled and there is a different hole pattern for removable tanks, so we suggest waiting for the FT install BM /or open a support ticket with SPA.
Dan W

[PlaneDan]

Regarding locating the holes. I believe that I better hold off on finishing the construction of the tanks until that information is available. Was that an oversight when the tank skins were pre-drilled or when the wing skins were pre-drilled? I am sure I could make a good guess at where they should be and maybe that is what I should do. My concern is that what I think is not always the way it should be and discovering that after the fact is not a good thing. These not only have to be drilled, but I have to install anchor nuts on the back of the wing skin because I am definitely making mine removable.

[rlweseman]

Here are the fuel tank fixtures for sale on our site:
Panther Tank Saddles