Panther Sport Aircraft Forums

I just dimpled the upper trim tab spar with the close-quarters dimple tool (modified)..... I had to bend the nail mandrel to get it into the spar hole, then would bend it straight to pull the dimple die.... took a while but worked well!

Rob, sorry I didn’t mention that dimpling the hinge causes it to warp slightly and has to be straightened. You got it figured out. Just in case this wasn’t covered, after dimpling with the DIENQ you’ll need to ream each hole with a #30 to bring the hole size to spec. Mike

I gave the DIENQ dimple die a shot on the trim tab piano hinge, and it worked out pretty good. Only issue I had was that it would put a bend in the piano hinge. After I dimpled all the holes I was able to carefully straighten the hinge back out. Thanks for the advice!

I dimpled the trim tab spar and lower trim tab skin using the Close Quarters Dimple Die Set. I modified two sets for various tight locations. I believe the instructions from 2013/14 called for dimpling the trim tab spar, or it was an option. Too long ago to remember. I dimpled the trim tab hinge and upper trim tab skin with a 120° standard dimple die. The DIENQ dimple die wasn’t available back then, but it really makes a positive difference in the final hole tolerance. Mike

https://www.cleavelandtool.com/products ... 911c&_ss=r

https://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/deta ... 102D-1%2f8

Rob
The trim tab hinge half is the only place we recommend countersinking vs dimpling thin Aluminum. The trim tab hinge half is sandwiched in between the trim tab skin, and the trim tab spar, so the rivet will set perfectly against the trim tab spar. The shear load is passed through the countersink and the dimple.
Due to the angles of the trim tab spar it is very difficult to dimple. A normal squeezer and die set will not do it. The DIENQ will not do this unless you grind it down and squeeze with needle nose vise grips or something ? Maybe Mike figured it out and can post pics and a description ? This is the reason we dimple the skin countersink the hinge and do nothing to the trim tab spar.
Another option ive seen used to some success if you are having trouble countersinking is to dimple the hinge, the flip it over and file/sand the protruding part of the dimple flush.
That said ,I have never had any difficulty countersinking the hinge other than that is is a softer aluminum and tend to chatter more. I use a higher speed and light pressure and it works fine.If you need a extra piece of hinge for this i have plenty of extra cutoffs and am glad to send you some.

Thanks Mike! Just ordered a set.

Rob, use the DIENQ dimple die from Cleaveland Tool to countersink the hinges and skins. Don’t use a countersink cutter on the hinge material. As you discovered, the cutter removes too much material. Mike

https://www.cleavelandtool.com/products ... 8223681598

I just recently started on my Panther tail kit. I opted for the flush rivets. As I got to doing the hinge for the trim tab, It says to countersink the holes you drill on the piano hinge. I started off with a very shallow setting on my countersink cage, since the metal piano hinge is fairly thin. To countersink it enough to wear the dimpled sheet metal lays flush in the countersunk hole, I had to keep countersinking deeper, to where it opened up the rivet hole too much to where a pulled rivet cant grab any of the metal on the backside.

Any advice or solutions on how to get the flush rivets flush on the trim tab piano hinge???