I have a Tatco squeezer. I'll get some solid rivets and try it out. The Main Squeeze on the youtube link looks pretty powerful. I'll check the fit around hard to get to spots, before I commit to solid rivets in that area. I'm thinking about what it will be like cleaning the airplane in the future, and I'd like to eliminate (as much as possible) the sharp edges of pulled rivets (trying to get a sponge under the aileron hinges).
Glen
Solid vs. pulled rivets
Forum rules
A forum for Panther aircraft builders and Enthusiasts. Two simple rules: Play nice and use a real name
A forum for Panther aircraft builders and Enthusiasts. Two simple rules: Play nice and use a real name
-
GlenNJ
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 8:11 am
- First Name: Glen
- Last Name: Robinson
- City or Town: Marmora
- State or Province: NJ
- Location: Marmora, New Jersey
-
psalter
- Posts: 146
- Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 6:50 pm
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Salter
- State or Province:
- Location: Green Cove Springs, Florida
Re: Solid vs. pulled rivets
I was talking to Dan, and he mentioned that a rivet squeezer would have to ground down to fit in the rear spar because of the angles. And it would be especially difficult around the rear spar attach fitting since the rivets are so close to the attach fitting.
Paul Salter
Team Panther
Engineer and Builder
Team Panther
Engineer and Builder
-
Tony Spicer
- Posts: 304
- Joined: Sun May 05, 2013 7:35 am
- First Name: Tony
- Last Name: Spicer
- State or Province:
- Location: Wilmington, NC 7NC1
Re: Solid vs. pulled rivets
[quote="GlenNJ"] Are these 1/8" solid rivets to hard to squeeze with a hand rivet squeezer?[/quote]
Glen,
Before you commit to a 1/8" squeezed rivet, it might be a good idea to get a few and answer the question for yourself. If you want to easily squeeze 1/8" rivets, get one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv10-XjVSsU
And remember that with the flaps up and right rudder, there are no shop heads visible.
Tony
Glen,
Before you commit to a 1/8" squeezed rivet, it might be a good idea to get a few and answer the question for yourself. If you want to easily squeeze 1/8" rivets, get one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv10-XjVSsU
And remember that with the flaps up and right rudder, there are no shop heads visible.
Tony
-
psalter
- Posts: 146
- Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 6:50 pm
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Salter
- State or Province:
- Location: Green Cove Springs, Florida
Re: Solid vs. pulled rivets
AN426AD and AN470AD rivets are certainly acceptable substitution if you wish. An AN426AD3 (3/32) is about the equivelant strength of the BSC-42 (1/8") pulled rivets. 3/32" and 1/8" are pretty easy to squeeze in the short lengths you are talking about.
There are a couple of other builders that are talking of doing solids, and at least one that I know did the upper surface of the wings solid, and the bottom pulled, because of looks.
Paul
There are a couple of other builders that are talking of doing solids, and at least one that I know did the upper surface of the wings solid, and the bottom pulled, because of looks.
Paul
Paul Salter
Team Panther
Engineer and Builder
Team Panther
Engineer and Builder
-
GlenNJ
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 8:11 am
- First Name: Glen
- Last Name: Robinson
- City or Town: Marmora
- State or Province: NJ
- Location: Marmora, New Jersey
Solid vs. pulled rivets
I'm about to start my tail section, and I have questions about solid vs. pulled rivets. On another post, Paul said to get permission before using a different rivet, than what's called for in the plans. I'm not fond of the shop head of a pulled rivet. Pulled rivets usually leave a sharp, jagged, shop head. I'd like to use solid rivets on the upped and lower edges of the C-channel, formed by the rear spars (the parts you can see). I want to do this on the trailing edges of the wings and tail surfaces. I'd also like to solid rivet, any place I can get a 3" rivet squeezer.
The rivets I'd like to use are AN-470AD- universal, and AN-426AD- flush rivets. I understand the AD at the end is important, because these rivets are made out of 2117 aluminum, and are hardened to T4 standards. The shear strength is 26,000 psi, and the tensile strength is 38,000 psi. I can't find a direct comparison between these solid rivets, and the called for BSC, pulled rivets, but they seem pretty strong. I plan to use the called for BSC, pulled rivets anywhere I can't get a rivet squeezer. I understand that pulled flush rivets have a 120 degree angle, as opposed to the 100 degree angle on solid flush rivets. Does anyone see a problem with this approach to my build? Are these 1/8" solid rivets to hard to squeeze with a hand rivet squeezer?
The rivets I'd like to use are AN-470AD- universal, and AN-426AD- flush rivets. I understand the AD at the end is important, because these rivets are made out of 2117 aluminum, and are hardened to T4 standards. The shear strength is 26,000 psi, and the tensile strength is 38,000 psi. I can't find a direct comparison between these solid rivets, and the called for BSC, pulled rivets, but they seem pretty strong. I plan to use the called for BSC, pulled rivets anywhere I can't get a rivet squeezer. I understand that pulled flush rivets have a 120 degree angle, as opposed to the 100 degree angle on solid flush rivets. Does anyone see a problem with this approach to my build? Are these 1/8" solid rivets to hard to squeeze with a hand rivet squeezer?