Updrilling for flush blind rivets

[rlweseman]

Posted by Tony Spicer 7/14/2014

Yep, think by now I have the sequence figured out

At some point everything will be match-drilled and clecoed #40. Then you'll go back and updrill/cleco. After all that is finished, skins will be clecoed to ribs. You will be dealing with 100's of 1/8 clecos in #31 holes. Then everything comes apart for deburring/dimpling. When you put all those 1/8 clecos back in the dimpled holes they'll go in/out much easier. Before dimpling, not so easy.

Tony

[rlweseman]

Posted by Rick Holland on 7/14/2014
I was refering to page 15 of the new BM Getting Started Manual:
"If you choose to dimple then please note this requires dimpling of not only the skin, but the mating surface will need to be dimpled or countersunk accordingly. If you choose to dimple you will need to use countersunk rivets.

The dimpling step happens after the holes have been updrilled with the #31 (0.120”) drill bit and de-burred. ​"
And yes my #30 clecos will go in the #31 hole, just not real easy.

[rlweseman]

Rick,



Posted by Tony Spicer 7/14/2014
You try putting clecos in #31 holes?

I did every last one with a #30 drill and an Avery dimple die. No issues.

Tony

[rlweseman]

Posted by Rick Holland - 7/13/2014
Am building with flush blind rivets and want to verify I am reading the instructions correctly before starting any updrilling. Any hole that is to be riveted with a flush blind rivet is updrilled with a #31 drill rather than a #30 correct? I experimented with some scrap and did notice that after dimpling, a hole drilled with a #31 ends up slightly smaller than one drilled with a #30 (which I assume is the reason for doing this).


​Thanks

Rick H