Re: Flush rivets
Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2025 8:27 am
I've had great customer service from Cleaveland. I think you mentioned you were already talking to Annette. I'm sure they'd let you return it if you bought it through them. Also, they would probably take your feedback to improve the die or clarify what rivets it should be used with.stevegawler wrote:I'm pretty sure now that the Cleveland "120 degree die for 1/8" pop rivets" is manufactured wrong. It is a 120 degree die, but the male die is the same size in profile as an AN -4 die which is slightly too small for our flush rivets.
I have been using the same process exactly with no problems (maybe 1% prowd stems). Noticed that if I deburr more 'aggressively' before the DIENQ that the #30 reamer is not necessary, get a perfect tight fit.blueisthenewblack wrote:Sonex has 120 degree dimple die. With the Sonex version, you updrill to #30, deburr, then use the die:stevegawler wrote:Question: is there a difference between the close quarter dies from the various tool suppliers? The Cleveland version could be a little better.
http://www.sonexaircraft.com/eshop/cart ... ory_id=260
I've found that the dimples produced with the close quarters die aren't quite as crisp as DIENQ, but the rivet still fits very well - flush with no protrusion.
Per Mike from Cleaveland, the correct process with the Cleaveland DIENQ is:
1) Drill with #40 Jobber drill bit & Cleco as you go along (with proper size Cleco)
2) Disassemble
3) Deburr
4) Dimple with DIENQ
5) Use #30 reamer to enlarge hole if needed. (Feed the reamer slowly to eliminate the need to deburr again.)
I've found with 90% of the dimples that the #30 reamer fits perfectly. For the remainder, it takes just a few turns of the reamer to enlarge it.
Sonex has 120 degree dimple die. With the Sonex version, you updrill to #30, deburr, then use the die:stevegawler wrote:Question: is there a difference between the close quarter dies from the various tool suppliers? The Cleveland version could be a little better.